…this is what I saw in the established cane-pruned Pinot clone 943. Buds are finally starting to show some activity. The cane-pruned Pinot HVS is also popping a little, but everything else is still dormant. The image below shows where we were in the same block on March 22nd, 2011—the vines were farther along at this time last year. 
Today was cool, gray and drizzly. In the last week we received 5.1 inches of rain, bringing us to 17.3 inches total—which means that 2012 is no longer the driest year since I started keeping our vineyard records in 1998. This season we are now ahead of 2007 (which didn’t reach 17″ until mid-April that year) but still behind 2001 and 2009 at 19.3″ and 19.75″ to date, respectively. We are expecting more rain this weekend.
The overhead sprinklers were running full blast at Beltane Ranch when I drove by this morning. Maybe they were testing the frost protection. But at Landmark they were definitely irrigating the new Rhône block by the highway—I could see the spray from a popped emitter as I drove by.
I’ve been thinking of the role that soil moisture might play in the timing of budbreak. Accepted wisdom is that the vines start to push when the soil temperature in the shallow root zone is consistently above 50° F. Does wet soil warm and retain heat better than dry soil? I’ve postulated that there is a day length rescue mechanism to assure that grapes ripen even in a cold year. Might there be a similar day length trigger for budbreak in a cold and/or dry year? Inquiring minds want to know.
Hermelando was out doing repair and maintenance on the frost emitters today. The crew was finishing tying of canes and cordons. In the last week we completed our semi-annual re-planting of damaged or diseased vines (you can see milk cartons in the image below of the Pinot HVS block, with the Pinot Calera block behind it). 
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Westwood Winery
by SUAMW
20 Mar 2012 at 20:43
Curious to hear your thoughts about the black spotty, blotchy discoloration on the canes. Is that typical? Or, is it some mold or mildew that died off last season?
by John M. Kelly
20 Mar 2012 at 21:53
Could be phomopsis: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r302100411.html
by SUAMW
20 Mar 2012 at 23:00
I see. Do you follow the recommendations for treatment and prevention on your vines? Do you make that decision based on the presence/absence of leaf lesions?
by John M. Kelly
21 Mar 2012 at 05:25
We do a prophylactic dormant light application of lime sulfur/copper, and a second light application in the spring if needed.
by SUAMW
21 Mar 2012 at 07:01
OK. Since the updated edition of “Grape Pest Management” is on back order, I have to ask:
How do you know if it’s needed during dormancy?
I’m asking because some of my vines have this discoloration.
by John M. Kelly
21 Mar 2012 at 07:23
How do you know a condom is needed? We do it routinely, for several reasons. Bordeaux mix protects against other maladies, including early season Botrytis and emergence of powdery mildew ascospores, as well as against phomopsis. Also, I have found that most vines in California are chronically deficient in copper, so the little amount we add is likely helpful. We don’t add the copper to the lime sulfur mix every year – more like every 3 years.
by SUAMW
21 Mar 2012 at 07:29
I take it a 4-gallon backpack sprayer will do for application?
by John M. Kelly
21 Mar 2012 at 07:31
Don’t see why not. We use a tank sprayer on the back of an ATV, with two guys walking behind. They wear Tyvek and respirators – the mist is a pretty strong irritant.
by SUAMW
21 Mar 2012 at 07:30
Also, I’m well into bud break. Is is safe to apply now and do I follow the same precautions as for elemental sulfur applications later in the season (ie temperatures)?
by John M. Kelly
21 Mar 2012 at 07:32
Yes, exercise caution.
by SUAMW
26 Mar 2012 at 07:20
I do not have access to ready-made Bdx Mixture, But do have access to Basic Copper 53 or Kocide 3000.
I that can use those to make my own mix.
Basic Copper 53 can be mixed with hydrated lime. However so far I have found it in 50# bags at $205/bag.
The Kocide 3000 is copper in the hydroxide form. Vendor says it is what most people use for copper applications because it is less phytotoxic than using basic copper. It comes in 10# bags and runs $92.
Price (and size of bag) aside, which one would you choose? Or would you keep looking?
by John M. Kelly
26 Mar 2012 at 09:57
You should be able to find smaller quantities of similar materials at your local garden store.
by SUAMW
26 Mar 2012 at 10:01
OK. Would you go with the hydroxide or the basic form?
by John M. Kelly
26 Mar 2012 at 10:12
If you plan to mix the two, check with the salesperson – one of the forms doesn’t play well in a mix but I don’t recall which. Doesn’t matter if you do separate sprays.